Old Leafsprung Land Rovers

I would advise investing in a Gunsons Easibleed kit although I must admit I've never used one on a Land Rover, but as I am replacing just about everything on my S1 braking system at the moment, I am about to.  I think they are around £18.

It uses pressure from an inflated tyre to push fluid throughout the system, making single handed bleeding so easy.  I guess you're on your own at midnight in the snow

Not wishing to **** on your bonfire but those vacuum bleeders don't seem to work on series motors, at least they won't for me. I bought one a while back and had no success with it. It is sounding like your master cylinder is **** however before condemning it I'd bleed with an eezibleed. I've just changed all of the wheel cylinders and brake shoes on the ambulance...



...and had no dramas using the g-clamping method and eezibleed. The CB master cylinders are trickier than a CV but once bled work fine. The beauty of the eezibleed is it effectively bleeds the system without the master cylinder having to pump, sometimes that can encourage a stubborn one to work. Failing that, I wouldn't bin it. There are companies that will re-sleeve them for around £75 - I'm sure Kev or Parksy posted summat recently about this.

I have been on the very same frustrating journey. Still not fully sorted out but I have learned a few things that might help you:

1) Vacuum bleeding will only get you so far because it sucks some air in past the nipple threads, pressurizing the MC works better.
2) Bench priming the MC will only get you so far.
3) I only got substantial improvement when I parked on a 30 degree slope and bled the nippers there.
4) The anchors on the backplates seem to work loose over time. Often these are welded back in place to secure them but if they are not in exactly the right spot, the shoes won't center right in the drums. After having replaced everything else (cylinders, shoes, drums), I eventually bought new backplates (ouch$$) and it helped. Unfortunately it wasn't the magic bullet I was hoping for, but at least the shoes wear evenly now and some of the spongyness is gone. I had replaced the drums because at first it was hard to get the drums on over the uncentered shoes, then when I had them "skimmed" at a machine shop the ID was too big leading to a poor fit with the shoes.
5) It's a fine line between pads being over and under adjusted. a little over is better because they will bed in.
6) It's a fine line between the MC shaft being adjusted too short and too long. Too long and you can lock up the brakes because the MC can't relieve itself, too short and there's not much travel left for the brakes!
7) Worn pedal bushings will eat into the available stroke at the M/C. (I'm going to replace mine - part number 272714).
I bought a set of "Speed Bleeder" nipples which have excellent reviews. Each one has a small check valve so that bleeding is a foolproof one man job. The threads even have a special self sealing compound on that is good for several bleeds and can be replaced if you buy a small bottle. I haven't got round to putting them in yet but I am hopeful.    Size SB3824L.

My Landy is a '62 SWB that I took on as someone else's abandoned "project" 3 years ago. It has been quite a journey!

Andrew

If only I was getting that far.

The mc isn't drawing any fluid at all from the reservoir. The rest of the system is still bone dry. I've checked for blockages and the feed pipe is fine, I got mad with it the other night and lifted the front end way up with my engine hoist, still no good. I've tried the shaft at different lengths/adjustments and nothing helps so, despite seeming to work properly on the bench it is in fact probably **** completely.

I've given up for now and am concentrating on other things, when I have some cash I'll buy a new mc and go from there. Thanks everyone for your input and help.

Ste

Does sound like your master cylinder is a bit trick. I had a right game bleeding the brakes on the 109 but eventually this worked for me.

MY PERSONAL BLEEDING METHOD: (Including twin leading shoe set up) Lock ALL the brake adjusters on so none of the wheels are able to turn. If you can’t lock them all on or they just keep turning round, then you must replace them or rectify the problem. You will not be able to get a good pedal or be able to stop in a straight line with out of adjustment brakes! Get an assistant to pump up the brake pedal and hold it down for 5 seconds. Whilst the pedal is still being held down release the wheel cylinder bleed nipple (with suitable clear tube/pipe attached) and leave open for 3 seconds. Tighten up and pump the pedal till hard and again hold for 5 seconds. Release whilst under pressure the nipple for 3 seconds and again tighten up. Repeat until no bubbles are visible. Don’t forget to top up the master cylinder! Work round the wheels in this order, OSF, NSF, OSR, NSR. That’s working from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder out to the furthest. A little tip is to use a torch to illuminate the clear pipe. This makes spotting bubbles easier. Whilst the assistant holds the pedal down, check the whole system for any fluid weep and flexible hoses for swelling or distortion. Replace any hoses and rectify any leaks. Finally, back off the adjusters 2 ‘clicks’ each.