Does sound like your master cylinder is a bit trick. I had a right game bleeding the brakes on the 109 but eventually this worked for me.
MY PERSONAL BLEEDING METHOD: (Including twin leading shoe set up) Lock ALL the brake adjusters on so none of the wheels are able to turn. If you can’t lock them all on or they just keep turning round, then you must replace them or rectify the problem. You will not be able to get a good pedal or be able to stop in a straight line with out of adjustment brakes! Get an assistant to pump up the brake pedal and hold it down for 5 seconds. Whilst the pedal is still being held down release the wheel cylinder bleed nipple (with suitable clear tube/pipe attached) and leave open for 3 seconds. Tighten up and pump the pedal till hard and again hold for 5 seconds. Release whilst under pressure the nipple for 3 seconds and again tighten up. Repeat until no bubbles are visible. Don’t forget to top up the master cylinder! Work round the wheels in this order, OSF, NSF, OSR, NSR. That’s working from the closest wheel cylinder to the master cylinder out to the furthest. A little tip is to use a torch to illuminate the clear pipe. This makes spotting bubbles easier. Whilst the assistant holds the pedal down, check the whole system for any fluid weep and flexible hoses for swelling or distortion. Replace any hoses and rectify any leaks. Finally, back off the adjusters 2 ‘clicks’ each.