Old Leafsprung Land Rovers

1.  What is the best and easiest way to swap the swivel oil seals.Is it possible to just undo the bolts between the swivel and axle and remove the whole assembly or is there more to it ?

2.  I'm sure i read somewhere about filling the swivels with grease instead of oil ? any thoughts anyone ?

3. If i am to remove the swivel to axle bolts are they prone to shearing

4. Thanks 

1) easiest way is to remove the swivel from the axle with the 6 bolts as described, easy to pass the seal over and affix onto the housing. Drain all the oil off. You can actually do this with everything still attached and the halfshaft will come with it, but that probably isn't the best idea as it'll be rather heavy indeed. I'd remove the stub axle and half shaft first but it is up to you.

2) I'd use EP90 as originally recommended. One shot grease is usually used when people have poor chrome or seals and the oil leaks out everywhere. Good seals and chrome and you won't have a problem with the EP90, plus the splash lubrication is much better with oil.

3) Possibly, but given the price of the new bolts I'd be inclined to replace them all anyway. Will certainly make it easier in the future. The nuts are nyloks I seem to recall, so should be replaced with new ones anyway.

Cheers chaps, hope to get them done this week, i'm erring on the side of the grease at the momemt as my thoughts are its more likely to stick rather than drain down if the motors out of action for a while.

Do the inferior sprung vehicles use Satan's arse lubricant by default ?       In which case  the cut & shut method  may serve.     
Superior  vehicles  use  the auriferous  liquid whose number is 89 + 1, and by it's number shall you know it.   
Flying hither and thither it seeks out the smallest imperfection and unless your jointing skills are of  Nobel prize standard  some snottage is inevitable.     
On the other hand it might work   

I've used the cheating method to replace one of my swivel seals, use a stanley knife to cut the rubber before cutting the metal ring with a junior hacksaw so you get a clean cut, I use EP89 + 1 and no it doesn't leak.

Do the inferior sprung vehicles use Satan's arse lubricant by default ?       In which case  the cut & shut method  may serve.     
Superior  vehicles  use  the auriferous  liquid whose number is 89 + 1, and by it's number shall you know it.   
Flying hither and thither it seeks out the smallest imperfection and unless your jointing skills are of  Nobel prize standard  some snottage is inevitable.     
On the other hand it might work   

The idea works, after all its the way you do the crank seal
Question is how do you rejoin the spring (on the crank seal its got a hook to rejoin) ... How will you do that?

If you can find a way around that I can't see a problem

   There is no need to split the spring  .. slide it off the seal before cutting it and then slide it back on...
once glued pack the rear of the seal wiper with grease and then fit as normal 

 You have to remove the chrome ball from the axle