« previous next »
Pages: [1] 2

Author Topic: Door seals..  (Read 360 times)

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Door seals..
« on: 04 May 2013, 04:11:49 pm »
Why the **** do they punch the hole through OEM door seals (supposedly) if they don't **** correspond to anything on the vehicle... I am seriously pissed off at the moment.  In addition, would it be so hard to make them the correct size straight off the bat, it is not as if they are cheap and cheerful.  I have had to drill new bloody holes in the seals and will have to mastic in the old ones, it would have been easier if they had just sent a blank seal the metal strip by the metre.. ****.
Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 934
  • Almost in Skem
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #1 on: 04 May 2013, 04:21:42 pm »
I've in the past glued mine on with tiger seal, trimmed the rivet shafts almost flush with the head then glued the rivet on to keep it looking neat.

I've always found that the seal distorts and leaks especially if pop rivets are used.
Logged
Neutrons gathered in a cosmagnetic shell

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #2 on: 04 May 2013, 04:31:57 pm »
Yup, it is doing that as well..... Shitting things.
Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Sr. Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 344
  • Location: Bourne 'South Lincs'
    • www.seriesdiesellandrover.com
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #3 on: 04 May 2013, 04:34:22 pm »
I was going to replace all the door seals on my series 3. Replaced one and was such a **** of a job I gonna leave the rest as they are. Fecking door now springs open when you release the door handle as well.....
Logged

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 934
  • Almost in Skem
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #4 on: 04 May 2013, 04:35:55 pm »
I bought the proper semi tubular rivets but can't afford the tool to form them, the cheapest I've seen was £70 IIRC, I keep looking for just the dies then I could make my own tool to compress them.
Logged
Neutrons gathered in a cosmagnetic shell

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #5 on: 04 May 2013, 04:47:18 pm »
I considered doing it that way,  but the seals were expensive enough without buying (or renting) that tool... So I ordered the pop rivets in the parts catalogue and they are shite as well.  What exactly did they base the **** hole layout on, it doesn't fit my 2A that is for sure  :****:  Of course, you can't even pop out and pick up some tiger seal on the weekend so will have to persevere with rivets tomorrow.

The problem with it being a Dormobile is I wanted to keep the water from dripping on my head whilst sleeping, with the 88"'s I couldn't give a rats arse about the seals, in fact I tend to get less corrosion without them..lol  Sometimes when it comes to Landy parts I feel like someone is out there taking the pure ****, would a **** Jag owner put up with this sort of ****??
Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 134
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #6 on: 04 May 2013, 04:55:16 pm »
Ashcroft do you mean the solid rivets. if yes PM me and maybe i can help....
Logged

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 934
  • Almost in Skem
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #7 on: 04 May 2013, 06:22:55 pm »
The rivets I have are partially solid but the last 1/8th of an inch is tubular, when compressed the tube end rolls out wards on its self. Not fully solid like SII body rivets, although they would probably be a better option than pop rivets.
Logged
Neutrons gathered in a cosmagnetic shell

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 779
  • Location: Rossendale, Lancs
    • C Barrow Engineering Ltd
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #8 on: 04 May 2013, 07:02:24 pm »
I would sooner drill new holes in the vehicle rather than the seals. Granted they should line up, but that would be my solution anyway. Pretty sure I am going to be using one piece *ahem* boingy *ahem* seals on mine I think. Cheaper and must be better than the originals, not least because there are no gaps. I won't be removing the roof or whatever on mine, so no need for seperate seals I don't think.
Logged

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #9 on: 04 May 2013, 07:13:02 pm »
Didn't want to grind any lips off on this one or would have done the same Calum... Drilling the seals is no big licks, just shouldn't have to in my opinion...  I can only assume that LR changed the hole positions at some point after 1962!!  It isn't even close, really annoying when you have especially ordered the correct left and right handed seals.  I have some gutter sealant which is excellent for sealing up the redundant seal holes!!

What is equally annoying is that I ordered two new drivers top seals and then found I had another 3 in my parts pile!!
Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 934
  • Almost in Skem
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #10 on: 04 May 2013, 07:19:20 pm »
If you wan't to use one piece seals you can cut the u shaped push on part off, this saves the lip on the vehicle and if cut with care can be made so that it is an interference fit on the vehicle.

If I remember there are 2 bits of solid rubber in the tube to keep the shape around the curved part of the door these were in the wrong place on mine, but that serves me right for buying Britpart seals.
Logged
Neutrons gathered in a cosmagnetic shell

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #11 on: 04 May 2013, 07:22:58 pm »
Presumably, even if you could get an interference fit it would be worth gluing as well?  It is certainly an idea as these so called OEM seals are pissing me right off.
Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Hero Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 934
  • Almost in Skem
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #12 on: 04 May 2013, 07:26:36 pm »
I didn't use glue on mine and they didn't let water in, but it wouldn't hurt to seal them in place.
Logged
Neutrons gathered in a cosmagnetic shell

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 146
  • Location: Carlisle, Cumbria
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #13 on: 04 May 2013, 08:03:31 pm »
Any chance of a picture fella?  The one good thing about the Dormi is I am never going to drop the windscreen...

Logged
"Steel can be any shape you want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you are not". Robert M. Pirsig

Offline

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 134
Re: Door seals..
« Reply #14 on: 04 May 2013, 08:11:46 pm »
I have just finished putting in a lot of solid body rivets.

Tools used, value ~£20 ish.

Tool station air hammer and chisel set, ~£15
make a die to suit the end of the rivet shape that you can push back onto the rivet head to keep it in place. ~£4 as I modified an old centre punch

Then cut the end off one of the chisels and grind it to have a dome in it. (basically to stop it bounding straight off, and to give the other side a nice shape.)

Hold the rivet in place, and air hammer it from the back. promise you it works like a charm...
Logged
Pages: [1] 2
« previous next »