Old Leafsprung Land Rovers

This has been bugging me since I got Mr Noisy back in june.

a 2.25 petrol 88" series 3.

When you crank the engine over to start it, the engine turns but not a lot seems to happen, until you release the key, then the engine will fire and run.

Every other car I have ever had, you just crank the starter until the engine fires then release it.

but I get the impression Mr Noisy would crank all day with nothing happening and only fire up just as you release the key.

Any idea what might be happening?  I've got used to it now and have no trouble starting, but it just seems odd behaviour.

I've not checked anything yet (obvious test is check for spark while cranking)

my v8 did that but always started never found out why

As said it does sound like no spark whilst cranking.

You could temp wire the coil direct to the battery and see if it cures the problem, if it does start looking at where the coil is fed from.

I think you have hit the nail on the head.  I'll get my volt meter out and also try looking for a spark while cranking.

This car was "rebuilt" about 18 months ago on it's new chassis 2 owners ago.  There are many many details like this that are wrong and I'm slowly putting them right.

If it's significant, the key barrel is very poor and fiddly. You have to push the key in to turn it the first part to turn the ignition on, then withdraw the key slightly before it will turn to the "crank" position

I just thought the coil was powered direct from the ignition and should be powered while cranking. So how does a diesel switch mechanism work then? I thought that would be the same and just shut the fuel off when you turn the key off, but would surely need the fuel on while cranking (no different to de powering the coil to stop the spark but powering the coil while cranking)

'Tommy' started doing this a while ago, after never previously having done it with no change having been made to the petrol ignition barrel during my ownership of many years.
However, good man and tech-guru 'FenTiger pointed to it probably being a fault in the barrel (tired/knackered/malfunctioning), which was good enough for me if it came from Toby's font of knowledge. But as it's such a twat-arse job to change the two tiny grommett screws, I've simply lived with the problem.
I must get 'round to it, if only out of respect for advice given.

The switch is a small unit that is held onto the end of the key barrel by two tiny cross head screws. It is possible to change it through the dash, but easier with steering wheel removed. Either way you need hands the size of 4 year old girl, and the dexterity of a brain surgeon. I have changed a couple now using my ham fists and have the scars to prove it!


Good luck!

It is possible one of the wires is on the wrong spade on the starter switch. I made this error on the FFR by getting a wire in the wrong place, it would spin like mad and only fire when the key returned to position 2 from position 3. Most ignition barrels have a number of options some of which aren't used, I think I got it on the one that should power the radio, usually the radio doesn't come on when cranking only when the key is released (not that a series usually has a radio but you get the idea).