Old Leafsprung Land Rovers
General Category => Technical tips & Questions => Topic started by: roverland on 14 April 2013, 11:42:07 pm
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Like nananess says, just use the old spring, and pack with grease.
With that and the cover ring everything will hold ok.
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Good point .... must have been past my bedtime when I posted that :rolleye0012:
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You have to remove the chrome ball from the axle
S why bother cutting the seal
With the ball removed you can slide the seal over easily without cutting it
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You have to remove the chrome ball from the axle
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How do you get the spring over the hub, steering tubes, brake pipe ?
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There is no need to split the spring .. slide it off the seal before cutting it and then slide it back on...
once glued pack the rear of the seal wiper with grease and then fit as normal
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The spring has a join in it you just need to find it and then unscrew it and it comes apart, and when fitted just screw it back together.
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Do the inferior sprung vehicles use Satan's arse lubricant by default ? In which case the cut & shut method may serve.
Superior vehicles use the auriferous liquid whose number is 89 + 1, and by it's number shall you know it.
Flying hither and thither it seeks out the smallest imperfection and unless your jointing skills are of Nobel prize standard some snottage is inevitable.
On the other hand it might work :-?
The idea works, after all its the way you do the crank seal
Question is how do you rejoin the spring (on the crank seal its got a hook to rejoin) ... How will you do that?
If you can find a way around that I can't see a problem
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It is a bodge but the cutting method also worked for me for several years, before I had time to refurb the whole axle. Definitely use 89 + 1 rather than the inferior sludge.
Cheers
Simon.
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I've used the cheating method to replace one of my swivel seals, use a stanley knife to cut the rubber before cutting the metal ring with a junior hacksaw so you get a clean cut, I use EP89 + 1 and no it doesn't leak.
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Thanks for your reply, i use the 89 +1 oil in an inferior sprung vehicle with seals replaced in manner above and have no issues with snottage, (well out of the seals anyway) and replacing the seals this way saves a lot of time and stripping. I was just wondering would it work on a series axle.
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Do the inferior sprung vehicles use Satan's arse lubricant by default ? In which case the cut & shut method may serve.
Superior vehicles use the auriferous liquid whose number is 89 + 1, and by it's number shall you know it.
Flying hither and thither it seeks out the smallest imperfection and unless your jointing skills are of Nobel prize standard some snottage is inevitable.
On the other hand it might work :-?
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Question: dose the trick of cutting the New oil seal with a junior hacksaw and fitting it by twisting it to open it up. Then place some sealant at the cut and fit with the cut at the 12 o clock position, without having to strip the whole thing ? (this works on boingies)
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Cheers chaps, hope to get them done this week, i'm erring on the side of the grease at the momemt as my thoughts are its more likely to stick rather than drain down if the motors out of action for a while. :smilewide:
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1) Yep, that's the easiest way. You'll obviously have to disconnect the brake flexi hoses and steering/track rods too but once done the whole shooting match will pull out of the axle casing.
2) There is a specific type of grease, part no. STC3435 Land Rover specified for later vehicles.
(http://www.brookwell.co.uk/wp-content/themes/brookwell/getimg.php?p=STC3435&q=bfp)
I have run it in my 2a 109 for years without issue, and contrary to popular belief it does seem to get everywhere and lubricate OK. Normal grease will NOT work, it must be the right type.
3) No more than any other bolt. Wire brushing and soaking in penetrating oil several times the week before you want to do the job is always worthwhile.
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1) easiest way is to remove the swivel from the axle with the 6 bolts as described, easy to pass the seal over and affix onto the housing. Drain all the oil off. You can actually do this with everything still attached and the halfshaft will come with it, but that probably isn't the best idea as it'll be rather heavy indeed. I'd remove the stub axle and half shaft first but it is up to you.
2) I'd use EP90 as originally recommended. One shot grease is usually used when people have poor chrome or seals and the oil leaks out everywhere. Good seals and chrome and you won't have a problem with the EP90, plus the splash lubrication is much better with oil.
3) Possibly, but given the price of the new bolts I'd be inclined to replace them all anyway. Will certainly make it easier in the future. The nuts are nyloks I seem to recall, so should be replaced with new ones anyway.
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two decent 9/16 spanners and a wire brush should have them undoing. the only ones i've sheared have been sheared with an angle grinder
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1. What is the best and easiest way to swap the swivel oil seals.Is it possible to just undo the bolts between the swivel and axle and remove the whole assembly or is there more to it ?
2. I'm sure i read somewhere about filling the swivels with grease instead of oil ? any thoughts anyone ?
3. If i am to remove the swivel to axle bolts are they prone to shearing
4. Thanks :smilewide: