Old Leafsprung Land Rovers
General Category => Technical tips & Questions => Topic started by: Baldy 1 on 07 April 2013, 03:20:50 pm
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I remember taking mine out of the Lightweight. I had armed myself with assorted 'weapons', hammers, jacks and an' all that shite, ready to do battle with the bloody thing.
Anyhow...undid the bolts and the wotsit at the bottom...got ready to wield me biggest hammer and bray several shades of shite out of it....and oh how disappointed was I when it just popped out!!! To say I was shocked, but so **** pleased was an understatement to say the least!!
The previous owners (the RAF) had obviously had the relay out at some stage in its life and when it was put back in they had absolutely smothered the thing with copper grease and this had made all the difference. Needless to say I followed their lead when I put my new one in...lagged copper grease all over the fucker! I'm not really expecting to have to take it out any time soon but if I do I fully expect it should just pop straight back out again, or I hope so anyhow!
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Did you manage to salvage the shaft from the relay? Ceratin new ones have been known to sheer :eek: so the old ones are worth keeping hold of.
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how did it come out then
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Shes out >Htlr<. She is also **** but never mind.
Nother item for the shopping list.
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Need it out as the chassis is going for galvanizing. It seems to be stuck on the interior collar.
My get the wife to stare at it, she makes everything shrink................ trol2*
It will be tight at the bottom. You could do with getting some push or pull on it somehow to load it up, then whack the top about as there is (supposed to be) some play at the top once the bolts are out, once you get it to move you have won, it should edge out if you keep loading it up and moving it side to side, this could take some time.
Sitting it on a jack is agood idea, if you still have enough weight with the engine etc still in?
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We used a 30 ton bottle jack and 2 steel pipes against the ceiling of the 8 storeys flatbuilding the workshop was in and it came out.
Eventually.
Be very careful - you are putting some stress on the various bits..
In regards to galvanizing a used chassis : we have done it many times - as in : 8 - 10 - and never problems in the last 25 years. Have it blasted, chemically cleaned in bassins and drill a lot of 12 mm holes in the chassis to let the air out when it is dipped.
All the best !
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Phew....I'm glad mine came out ok. A bottle jack/wood underneath and it slid out a treat.
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The last time I took one out I undid the two top bolts and lifted it out with a finger and thumb :smilewide:
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If it's stck in that bad, you're going to damage the chassis removing it. Replace the crossmember before sending it off for Galvanising. TBH, I wouldn't bother with galve on a used chassis. You can NEVER get it fully clean., and run the risk of it going boom in the tank also.
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Need it out as the chassis is going for galvanizing. It seems to be stuck on the interior collar.
My get the wife to stare at it, she makes everything shrink................ trol2*
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the one relay i have managed to remove took near as dammit half a day to get out, i ended up cutting the lugs that are welded to the chassis off so i could get a massive set of stilsons on the top of it to twist it in the hole to help break the rust up
once i eventually got it out about 1/2lb of rust fell on the floor and the tube looked like it had been containing an ostrich egg
it's a good relay that was in a knackered chassis and i really wanted to experiment in case i ever need to get one out to perform welding repairs
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Why do you NEED to get it out? Only if you do not NEED to get it out it will be far easier to rebuild it in situ. I have been trying to get mine out for 3 months, tried all sorts, as part of a rebuild, it finally came out by removing the internals (carefully inside a sack as it is spring loaded) and making a puller with 12mm rod with a slide hammer on the end. I loaded it up with a LOT of force then hit the top of the relay from side to side eventully it moved.
Problem is the tube inside was rusty and has crumpled as the relay pulled through so i now need to replace it anyway :haha: , I needed the relay out so i can weld up the hole under the top collar bit.
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Remove the front panel, get a stout timber between the crossmember and the lintel over your garage door. Then jack the relay up, soaking in hot oil as you go. Keep this pressure up until it moves. 6-8 weeks should see it start to move.
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I haven't done this yet, but Drews method sound good.
HHH
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I tried soaking mine, jacking it from below
with Dave sat on the bumper, and using a mahoosive puller to try & push it through from below. - the latter only started to distort the Xmember, - so I cut the fucker out & welded another section in from another chassis, which came with a decent relay also stuck in it. ::)
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There are countless ways, depending upon how much you want to sweat and what level of damage you wish to avoid to the cross-member.
Either way, I'd repeatedly soak it in diesel for a couple of days, later going with the method of trying to jack the thing out, with hefty taps to a robust piece of wood on the cross-member.
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Take a look on you tube there is a guy on there (a Dutchman ?) who shows the job with a puller and a big fook off breaker bar. They can be a bit tight!!!!
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I welded a hashed-up cage around the chassis using big metal from an old gate,designed to allow a 6 ton bottle jack to press the relay out from underneath.
The relay didn't want to come out,but it was left with no option,cage was chopped off afterwards and thrown onto the scrap pile.
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i used a lump of wood and gave it some whelly with a tapomiter.
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Need to get the relay out of the front crossmember but how? Need to cause as little damage as possible. I do have at my disposal a feking big hammer and a very blunt chisel.
Any other gear needed? :bleurgh