Not mine i have just nicked it, thought i would stick it here as it looks useful and informative, you could probably make your own version with old engine oil?
TECHNICAL DATA SHEETS
Waxoil homebrew.doc PAGE 1 OF 1
20 April 2006
WAX OIL HOMEBREW
Introduction – This describes how to make your own Wax oil, it’s a home brew that I think works better than the shop stuff, you know the type, black or clear sold in Halfords and the like;
£20 for 5 litres. My stuff can be made from common or garden ingredients, can be easily sprayed with a 99p leaf sprayer from garden centres and will set into a gel.
When the weather is about 10 –15 °C is the best temperature to spray it and will form a runny jelly like covering that eeks it’s way into gaps, when things get hotter about 25°C it will go softer and continue to creep in to all the places you want it to and finally in the winter it will go quite ridged and resist all that horrible stuff winter can throw up. The commercial stuff; I’ve found, sprays on and sets after a year and is quite thick, doesn’t creep into the gaps and cracks when it gets old.
The Ingredients – You will need: -
• An old oil container to store it in.
• 2 Kg of the cheapest candles you can get (Wilko or Lidls etc)
• 2 Litres of White sprit
• 0.5 Litres of paraffin oil (the stuff that goes into these little ornamental oil lamps). Very
cheap engine oil can be used, the cheaper the better as it will have less additives in it.
The Recipe - Break the candles up into the smallest bits you can and then tip them into the white sprit, put the cap on and put it in the airing cupboard, or somewhere where the temperature will stay around 25°C. These will slowly dissolve over a period of about 2 weeks and it helps to give the mix a good shake every day or so.
After two weeks most of the candles will have gone into the white spirit and will leave it a thicker milky colour. Now tip the paraffin oil (or engine oil) into your container followed by the liquid part of the white spirit/candle mix; keep the solids out or it will block your sprayer when you use it.
That’s it, just spray away and it should cost you about £2 for 5 litres, to make more just adjust the volumes, but keep the ratios the same.
The Application - Warm up the mix so any wax that came out of solution will re-dissolve,
then direct the sprayer into the gaps, voids or surfaces. It will form a gel when it hits the
bodywork but it will creep and once the temperature rises a little this will run and creep
everywhere. It is especially good in panels like bonnets, doors and boots, you can see the stuff running along and filling the seams.
The Theory - The white sprit has leeching properties, in other words it will creep over any surface it touches, it will not bead like water on a ducks back. The white sprit will creep into gaps and seams and carry the dissolved wax and oil with it, over about a week the white sprit will evaporate leaving behind the wax which will now be solidifying, it will not harden back into candle form because the paraffin oil (engine oil) will keep it liquid, although a thick liquid. If the mix is damaged by say a stone thrown up, then the mix will continue to creep and cover up the hole left by the stone impact.